Days in Penang Past

I still recall cycling to school along Green Lane, when it was much more leafy and with much less vehicular traffic. Ishak the son of a naval officer and I paddled side by side along the rather straight two laned road past benign large trees, the Convent School, large government owned bungalows and the Thai Temple. We arrived at an educational institution that was established in 1816. The solidly built school had long facades of white paint, a rather distinguished hall based on British traditions and a field with neatly kept lawns. Most impressive to me was the rather sizeable sports pavilion that was sited not far from the house of the Head Master. I can still recall clearly the covered sheds where we parked our bicycles. The Library building had a more modern architecture than the rest of the school complex. Friday afternoons were the best days of such non-chalant and halycon school times. Shortly after noon a few classmates and I would gather at a house near a roundabout near a long and winding road named after our high school. There we would dabble in things and chat that fascinate the emerging liberating world of an early adolescent. Such Friday sessions would lead to hill and beach bungalow stays in a world all at once refreshing, changing and yet constricted by the boundaries of a small but fascinating island with already a rich past. I grew up in a community that considered itself apart from the peninsular mainland. It is with irony now that I reflect at times that the powers that be from this particular mainland has in the past over forty years also politically and socially scorned the people of my birth place. It is also not amazing to me that many of fellow island brethren have also relocated to another nearby island - Singapore. Fast forward another ten years and after being away at university, I returned to a fast changing Penang. I relished those evenings going out in groups dining at beach restaurants or remote venues with niche food on an island that still inherently viewed itself as special. This was at a period before Georgetown was granted UNESCO world heritage status and was in a sort of economic limbo between its Silicon Isle manufacturing past and its future revival with million ringgit properties. This was the age of an explosion of motor bikes crowding its narrow streets and with street food still made and sold by authentic cooks and vendors. The island's northern beaches became littered with hotels, tourists and commercialisation. Dark skinned beach boys mingled with blonde haired backpacker girls from Germany and Queensland. Students protested on a mass scale in Beijing and the Berlin Wall came down. One radiating hot spring day I found myself with two pieces of luggage plonked down with a dear cousin's place in Marsfield north of Sydney's Harbour Bridge. I had left my beloved Penang driven by a permanent resident visa granted to me based on my professional skills and young working age. There was no revolutionary event on my home shores, but significant confronting with yet still evolutionary changes in the socio-political landscape in the nation's capital city, only a four hour drive by car south-east of Penang, had begun to embed, establish and endure. As it rains persistently on the Illawarra coast this evening, I begin to ponder on the past of my hometown, like all immigrants everywhere, when they get a quiet moment from the drive of satisfying the hunger, fascination and challenge of settling in a new land. What do I recall best of all? Mates felt unspokenly comfortable enough to drop by unannounced at home. Temperatures were warm enough for us to hang around chatting outdoors as well. Cordial drinks were popular to be served. Motor bike riders and passengers passing by on the street went about their business with earnest decency, unlike in today's Malaysia where hand bag snatch incidents are the highest in the world. At times, friends and relatives gathered for hours on end to have a laugh, share moments and consume tasty food. Due to the humidity, afternoons after lunch were best reserved for a siesta. I could hear roosters call at dawn, even if I stayed far away from a rural setting. Food was always available, from Mum's cooking, the short car drive to the midnight hawker stalls or the latest opened cafe or food court. The sun rose and set at almost the same time throughout the year. And Penang Hill stood always apparently looking over my shoulder, but its flora and vegetation were already getting deforested and the beloved mists of my teenage hood staying in bungalows up there were thinning out and not recurring so often.

Ryos Japanese, Crows Nest - Sydney

Ramen comes in various forms and feel from different parts of Japan - Ryo's offer a distinct Tokyo taste in stock soup and texture of thin noodles. Although favourite soups come laden with rich brews in pork and chicken, Ryo's does also provide a distinctive blend of both fish and pork stock ( or tonkotsu-gyokai). The intensity of the soups at Ryo's seem to appear lighter, but that does not detract from a rewarding taste. One tends to compare ramen experiences with those of the home country, in the nearby Korean peninsular and in various joints, upmarket or not, scattered in homes and hubs in various immigrant portions of Western cities. Not only is the quality of the soup important, but I reckon the cut and taste of well chosen pork or chicken cuts do affect the overall sensation. When one consumes ramen, one must acknowledge the origins of this dish, essentially street food, echoing of working class struggles, the charm and expertise of individuals who labour over the art and joy of cooking them and the village like communal atmosphere which has nurtured this quintessential East Asian inspiration.  It may be also important to not mix up judgements of ramen with those aspects in slurping up pasta or partaking Chinese vermicelli, for although possibly related by history and culture, ramen stands a world apart from pasta and its other variations originating in different geographical regions. Ramen culture echoes the uniqueness and nuances of Japanese society.

Ryo's on the lower north shore of greater Sydney has an unassuming facade outside and is rather small inside, offering only a few tables and a stooled bar counter for clients. Whatever space on the walls are filled up with hand written strips of paper, reminiscent of Nippon temples and Tibetan impressions. "Ryo" means to be magnificent, excel and exceed. In this respect, this particular business lives up to its name, in attracting people to line up outside its small shop front, to make them come back for more and create a positive representation of street food in a corner of Crows Nest away from the main strip of cafes and restaurants. A rather tanned guy opens its doors occasionally to admit two or three customers at a time. This is a place where it pays to arrive early, otherwise one would be caught with a sure test of the limits of one's patience - and it can be rather warm lining up under the full sun along Falcon Street. There is not an extensive menu list - but you do have options in dumplings and side snacks if you do not want noodles. You inevitably end up sharing tables with strangers who can potentially be friends - and that is the purpose of it all, to partake food together in a communal fashion. The prices are rather reasonable when compared with the Ippudos of the world - and in this respect, I am reminded more of the Menya joints in Sydney CBD than anything else. The compulsory egg is served with each Ryo bowl, which is smaller than its competitors. One thing about Ryo is that you eat as fast as you can, go and allow other people to take your seat. Maybe it should be located near transport hubs and rail stations, where a never ending of passer-bys can take care of their meals and move on.

I also am reminded of Vietnamese pho joints around Sydney, where diner turnover, speed of service and a practical approach add to the value of doing a business. Yes, there is the contraption of sauces, the chopstick pairs and the folded serviette paper sitting and staring at us from the table. There is a family of four hovering behind me near the door. The several people who share our table just speak enjoyably in Mandarin, with not a word of English from them. You can have a spicy variation of the soup, although I often prefer the clear version instead. What I wondered is the signature difference between Tokyo ramen with other versions? Is it Hakata styled tonkotsu or pork bone cuts, or having sweet dried sardines or bonito with chicken to build up the broth? Must the stock be a bit fatty to bring out the flavours? Shoyu, or soy sauce, must be cleverly used in a diligent way to avoid leaving an excessive lingering of thirstiness in clients - and natural flavours are to be preferred, instead of resorting to the easy option of adding MSG. Tokyo's ramen are often found along narrow and tiny lanes. What is always a winner are having those chunky chashu pork slices to adorn a piping hot bowl of ramen.

Not far from Falcon Street is a hidden hub of cafes with breakfast and brunch menus, barista made coffees and one - Scurro's - with some cakes and sweet stuff. Such is the beauty and specialness of Australian cities and suburban areas. You can have your Japanese and still top up with Italian, modern Australian and the best of produce and ingredients. The day had got unseasonably warm and once again Australia was to witness a change in the Commonwealth Government in elections held for the 28th Prime Minister and the 44th term of Government in the nation. Multi-culturalism marches on and has become irreversible. The benefits in the fusion and availability of different cuisines around the world are not to be taken for granted.

Jamie's Italian - Sydney CBD

Truffled risotto - done and served just right

We were fortunate to have Andy attend to us. Andy engaged us right form the beginning with a fun sense of welcome, coupled with initiative, knowledge and a natural countenance.  He sensed that we needed efficiency, like lunchtime was sandwiched between some urgent dictates -  and he dived into getting us going, with a rather thoughtful list of possible drinks, finally winding up with an encouraging
nurturing for us to try dessert.  Andy organised us like a good mate and reliable confidante, quashing any stuffiness with impeccable delivery and relaxing mood. Fresh pepper was ground in front of us with a relish that made this an inherent part of the food experience - and he knew when to leave us to our own devices. Jamie's did have background noise but it was relatively okay and we did not overly mind this.  Tables filled up quickly and the staff quietly went about their business. The ambiance was not overly dark but customers settled into a sort of cocooned shade inside. We could have a conversation, we enjoyed what we ordered and I reckon we would come back again at the next opportunity.

The truffled turkey Milanese - Turkey, rocket, omelette and garnishing -maybe more fusion than Italian?  What stood out  from the extensive menu was the good choice in salads - winter walnuts, pumpkins and smoked mozzarella nachos or simple baked mushrooms. There are also Sicilian sardine bruschettas. A combination of both Italian and Australian sourced wines set the pace at the beginning.  If you prefer beer, there are only two options - Messina or Castello.  You have access to a wider selection of cocktails priced in their mid teens.  With names like funky and posh chips, one quickly realises the Brit behind the scenes - and those wanting for authentic Italian may then begin to revolt.  There are only four fish dishes for an Australian setting.   Maybe this reflects truly cosmopolitan rather than just Italian.

A rather simple salad (foreground) to accompany the bucatini. (background)

Located at the northern end of Sydney CBD, with its potential for a variety of corporate, tourist and young demographics, Jamie's Italian is a business reality that is operating in various cities in Australia, UK and more. I reckoned if it was just known as Italian, rather than with a prefix of Jamie, there may be a different response in some expectations and perceptions. Jamie Oliver's branding can be a two edged sword, but my own experience tells me to just judge the food and not the possible hype surrounding it.

Long queues tolerated just to get a table can be resolved by avoiding rush hour.  I did find the service was happily responsive and the food came relatively quick. The energy shown by both the cooking and serving staff manifested itself in the vibes, taste and dynamics. Jamie's in Sydney occupies a rather large customer area, with two floors, an attempt at graffiti over raw brick and resulting perhaps in a decor that is both Tuscany and London.  There is a positive buzz about it and I am grateful for the generous aisles between tables.  Bookings in advance are only accepted if there are more than six diners - and if you have less than that in your group, they must all be present before they can be seated. I watched in earnest as a  young female staff gingerly concentrated on her making fresh pasta at the front waiting area - this landing lobby on the ground floor is however smallish, but the queues wait mostly outside rather than inside.  I prefer the upper floor with its height and looking all over like having a bird's eye view of the venue. There may be three separate open kitchens in addition to the bar. Echoing a large and long Paddington terrace, Jamie's in Sydney city has high ceilings that suggest of farm barns and rural perspectives.  I loved the wood colour of the tables and accompanying themes.  Breads come with the water but in a  selection of various forms and not just of one chunky type - they are more like to get our appetites going.  Despite a rather busy regime, someone does come to ask if your food is going all right and if you would like anything else. And of course, we had Andy.

Absolutely adorable and a must try - scoops of your preferred flavoured ice cream with all those enhancing crushed nuts and seeds.   The Tutti Fruitti Lemon Meringue pie was another winner - sharp enough, not overpowering but with a  healthy crusty bite.